Rack Avenger PRO is engineered for a fast, permanent repair — no special tools, no crew, no downtime.
EST. Installation time
People Needed
Watch our step-by-step installation walkthrough. No special training needed just two people, and basic tools
Before any tools come out, a thorough assessment protects both your team and your warranty. This step sets up everything that follows — don’t rush it.
Locate and clearly mark the structurally compromised upright. Check for bowing, bending, cracking, and deformation along the column. Even damage that looks minor can affect structural capacity.
Take clear photos or video of the damaged upright from multiple angles before touching anything. this documentation is required for your lifetime warranty to remain valid- do not skip this.
Remove any product, pallets, or obstructions immediately beside and below the damaged upright on floor level. you need clear access to both sides of the column base. In most case, upper bay inventory does not need to be unloaded when using the Rescue System Lift.
Using a tape measure, locate and mark the highest point of visible damage. This measurement determines which kit size you need: 24″. 36″, 48″ or 60. Your kit height must equal to or greater than this measurement
The Rescue System Lift is what allows this repair to happen without unloading the rack. It carries the load of the upright during the cut-and-replace process. Proper mounting is critical — a poorly secured lift is a safety hazard.
Place the Avenger Rescue System Lift base 14″ from the inside of the lift shaft to the face of the damaged upright. This spacing is precise, measure it, do not eyeball it. The lift needs to operate without contacting the rack structure.
Secure the lift head to the upright using (4) 1/2″ bolts 2 bolts at the top and 2 bolts at the bottom. Tighten each bolt to snug, then give each one an additional half turn with a wrench. Do not over tighten.
Attach (6) side pins – square or round bar stock – with 3 pins at the top of the cuff and 3 pins at the bottom. These pins lock the cuff to the upright and prevent any lateral movement during the lift.
Loop the safety/ratchet strap from the lift, around the rear upright of the same frame. Tighten until snug — firm but not cinched down hard. The strap is a backup restraint, not a primary load carrier. Do not over-tighten.
Before engaging the lift, the foot plates need to be in the correct state — the rear leg anchored and stable, the front leg anchor removed so the lift can do its job without fighting the concrete.
Confirm that the rear upright foot plate is securely anchored to the floor. Do not proceed if the rear anchor is loose, missing, or damaged — this is the fixed point the entire operation loads against. If the rear anchor is compromised, contact our team before continuing.
Remove the anchor hardware from the front leg of the damaged upright. The front leg needs to be free so the lift can raise it slightly during the cut. Keep the removed hardware nearby — you won’t reuse it, but it’s useful for reference.
If the front anchor is still bolted down when you engage the lift, you’re fighting the concrete. Unanchoring the front leg first allows the hydraulic jack to lift cleanly with no resistance from the floor plate.
This is the most precise step of the installation. The lift raises the front column just enough to take the tension off the anchor — no more. Raising it too far risks misaligning the frame and putting stress on adjacent bays.
With the lift fully mounted and pinned, slowly engage the hydraulic jack using the jack handle. Raise the front of the upright no more than ¼” from the ground. You are releasing the tension on the anchor stud — not lifting the rack. Watch the front foot plate as you pump; stop the moment it just clears the concrete.
Using a Sawzall, cut the existing anchor stud flush to the concrete surface. The goal is a clean, flat cut — no protrusion above the floor. This clears the way for the new Rack Avenger PRO base plate and fresh wedge anchors. Keep the blade perpendicular to the floor for a level cut. A grinder can clean up any remaining nub.
With the lift carrying the load and the anchor stud cleared, it’s time to remove the damaged section of the upright. Clean, straight cuts here make the kit installation much easier and ensure a solid fit.
Using a Sharpie and square, mark your cut lines on the upright. You’ll make 4 cuts total: 2 on the front leg of the upright column, and 2 on the diagonal and horizontal bracing. The cuts should be above the highest point of damage to ensure you’re working with undamaged steel.
Using a portable bandsaw or Sawzall, make all 4 cuts at your marked lines. Cut slowly and squarely — a clean, perpendicular cut ensures the Rack Avenger PRO cuff seats properly. Have spare blades on hand; upright steel will dull blades quickly. A grinder can clean up any rough edges after cutting.
Pull out the cut section of the upright. Set it aside — do not leave it on the floor in the work area. Clear all metal shavings, debris, and cut materials from the base area before proceeding to kit installation.
This is where the Rack Avenger PRO goes in. The kit is designed to slide onto the cut upright and self-align — but take your time with the backing plates and slider bolts to ensure a solid, permanent connection.
Position the Rack Avenger PRO so the cut upright column slides into the front cuff of the kit. The cuff should fully seat around the cut end of the column. Take care not to force it — if it’s not sliding in cleanly, check for burrs or rough edges from the cut and grind them smooth.
Extend the fully adjustable depth slider until it sits snug against the back column upright of the frame. The slider accommodates depths from 36″ to 48″ — adjust it to fit your specific rack depth precisely. A snug, zero-play fit here is essential for structural integrity.
Place one backing plate on the backside of the cut upright column and secure it with (2) carriage bolts through the front cuff. If the bolt holes don’t align perfectly, use the reaming tool to adjust — do not force misaligned holes. The reaming tool is recommended for all backing plate hole alignment. Forcing a misaligned bolt compromises the connection.
Place the second backing plate on the backside of the rear post of the upright frame and secure with (2) carriage bolts through the slider. Again, use the reaming tool if holes need adjustment.
Secure the fully adjustable slider using (4) ½” x 4″ carriage bolts — 2 through the top of the slider, 2 through the bottom. Tighten fully with an impact gun and ½” socket. These bolts lock the depth setting permanently and tie the front and rear columns together structurally.
The kit is in place — now it needs to be perfectly plumb before anchoring. A kit anchored out of square puts uneven stress on the column and can affect load capacity. Take the time to get this right.
Release the hydraulic pressure gradually to lower the lift and allow the Rack Avenger PRO base to settle onto the floor. Lower slowly — you want the base plate to land flat, not drop and bounce. Once the kit is resting on the floor under its own weight, stop lowering.
Using a level, verify the kit is perfectly square — 90° from the floor in both directions (front-to-back and side-to-side). Make any small adjustments now before drilling. Once the wedge anchors go in, the position is permanent. Check plumb at the top of the kit, not just the base. Small base angles amplify at height.
Using a hammer drill with a ¾” hammer drill bit, drill (4) anchor holes through the base plate of the kit into the concrete floor — one at each corner of the continuous footplate. Drill to the correct depth for the ¾” x 5½” wedge anchors. Keep the drill perfectly perpendicular to the floor for straight anchor holes. Angled anchors reduce holding capacity.
Insert (4) ¾” x 5½” wedge anchors into the drilled holes and tighten with a ¾” socket and impact gun to the specified torque. The wedge anchors expand as they tighten, locking the base to the concrete. Do not under-torque — the floor anchor is the final load transfer point.
Secure the fully adjustable slider using (4) ½” x 4″ carriage bolts — 2 through the top of the slider, 2 through the bottom. Tighten fully with an impact gun and ½” socket. These bolts lock the depth setting permanently and tie the front and rear columns together structurally.
The Rack Avenger PRO is anchored and secure. Now carefully disassemble and remove the Rescue System Lift in reverse order — safety strap first, then pins, then the lift head, then the base.
Release all tension from the ratchet safety strap and unhook it from both the lift and the rear upright. Set it aside with the lift kit components.
Pull out all (6) side pins from the cuff — 3 from the top, 3 from the bottom. Keep them with the lift kit; they’re needed for future installations.
Remove the (4) ½” x 1½” bolts from the lift head plate — 2 from the top, 2 from the bottom.
Slide the lift head free from the upright, then disassemble the base and any jack extensions. Move the entire Rescue System clear of the work area. Inspect all lift components for damage and store properly for next use.
With the lift removed, do a final visual check of the installed kit. Verify all bolts are tight, the kit is plumb, all 4 floor anchors are set, and there are no gaps between the cuff and the upright column. The kit should feel completely rigid with zero movement.
Hook-Overs allow you to reattach beams at their original height on the new Rack Avenger PRO column. Because the kit replaces the original column section, existing beam connector holes may no longer align — hook-overs solve this cleanly and permanently.
Install Hook-Overs directly onto the Rack Avenger PRO kit column at the beam height where you need to restore the original beam level. Hook-Overs can be placed anywhere below the cuff of the kit.
Secure each Hook-Over using (8) x 1″ self-tapping screws. Drive them fully with an impact gun. Hook-Overs should be completely flush and immovable once fastened.
Reconnect the rack beams to their original height using the Hook-Overs. Verify each beam connection is locked in and test by applying upward pressure to each beam end — they should not lift free without the safety clip being released.
Before any tools come out, a thorough assessment protects both your team and your warranty. This step sets up everything that follows — don’t rush it.
Locate and clearly mark the structurally compromised upright. Check for bowing, bending, cracking, and deformation along the column. Even damage that looks minor can affect structural capacity.
Take clear photos or video of the damaged upright from multiple angles before touching anything. this documentation is required for your lifetime warranty to remain valid- do not skip this.
Remove any product, pallets, or obstructions immediately beside and below the damaged upright on floor level. you need clear access to both sides of the column base. In most case, upper bay inventory does not need to be unloaded when using the Rescue System Lift.
Using a tape measure, locate and mark the highest point of visible damage. This measurement determines which kit size you need: 24″. 36″, 48″ or 60. Your kit height must equal to or greater than this measurement
The Rescue System Lift is what allows this repair to happen without unloading the rack. It carries the load of the upright during the cut-and-replace process. Proper mounting is critical — a poorly secured lift is a safety hazard.
Place the Avenger Rescue System Lift base 14″ from the inside of the lift shaft to the face of the damaged upright. This spacing is precise, measure it, do not eyeball it. The lift needs to operate without contacting the rack structure.
Secure the lift head to the upright using (4) 1/2″ bolts 2 bolts at the top and 2 bolts at the bottom. Tighten each bolt to snug, then give each one an additional half turn with a wrench. Do not over tighten.
Attach (6) side pins – square or round bar stock – with 3 pins at the top of the cuff and 3 pins at the bottom. These pins lock the cuff to the upright and prevent any lateral movement during the lift.
Loop the safety/ratchet strap from the lift, around the rear upright of the same frame. Tighten until snug — firm but not cinched down hard. The strap is a backup restraint, not a primary load carrier. Do not over-tighten.
Before engaging the lift, the foot plates need to be in the correct state — the rear leg anchored and stable, the front leg anchor removed so the lift can do its job without fighting the concrete.
Remove the anchor hardware from the both front and rear leg of the damaged upright. The legs needs to be free so the lift can raise it slightly during the cut. Keep the removed hardware nearby — you won’t reuse it, but it’s useful for reference.
If the anchor anchors still bolted down when you engage the lift, you’re fighting the concrete. Unanchoring the front leg first allows the hydraulic jack to lift cleanly with no resistance from the floor plate.
This is the most precise step of the installation. The lift raises the front column just enough to take the tension off the anchor — no more. Raising it too far risks misaligning the frame and putting stress on adjacent bays.
With the lift fully mounted and pinned, slowly engage the hydraulic jack using the jack handle. Raise the front of the upright no more than ¼” from the ground. You are releasing the tension on the anchor stud — not lifting the rack. Watch the front foot plate as you pump; stop the moment it just clears the concrete.
Using a Sawzall, cut the existing anchor stud flush to the concrete surface. The goal is a clean, flat cut — no protrusion above the floor. This clears the way for the new Rack Avenger PRO base plate and fresh wedge anchors. Keep the blade perpendicular to the floor for a level cut. A grinder can clean up any remaining nub.
With the lift carrying the load and the anchor stud cleared, it’s time to remove the damaged section of the upright. Clean, straight cuts here make the kit installation much easier and ensure a solid fit.
Using a Sharpie and square, mark your cut lines on both the front and rear upright columns. You’ll make cuts on the front leg, rear leg, and all diagonal and horizontal bracing between them. All cuts should be above the highest point of damage on each respective column to ensure you’re working with undamaged steel.
Using a portable bandsaw or Sawzall, make all cuts at your marked lines on both columns. Cut slowly and squarely — clean, perpendicular cuts ensure both PRO Double cuffs seat properly. Have spare blades on hand; upright steel will dull blades quickly. A grinder can clean up any rough edges after cutting.
Pull out the cut sections from both the front and rear uprights. Set them aside — do not leave them on the floor in the work area. Clear all metal shavings, debris, and cut materials from the entire base area before proceeding to kit installation.
The PRO Double installs on both the front and rear columns simultaneously, tying the entire frame together into a single reinforced structure. Work one side at a time but keep both sides loose until both cuffs are fully seated before final tightening.
Position the front cuff of the Rack Avenger PRO Double so the cut front upright column slides fully into it. The cuff should fully seat around the cut end of the column. If it’s not sliding in cleanly, check for burrs or rough edges from the cut and grind them smooth.
Repeat the same process on the rear upright — seat the rear cuff fully around the cut end of the rear column. With both cuffs seated, the PRO Double now spans the full depth of the frame.
Extend the adjustable depth slider until each cuff sits snug against its respective column. The sliders accommodate depths from 36″ to 48″ — adjust both to fit your specific rack depth precisely. A snug, zero-play fit on both sides is essential for structural integrity.
Place one backing plate on the backside of each cut upright column and secure each with (2) carriage bolts through the corresponding front and rear cuffs. If bolt holes don’t align perfectly, use the reaming tool to adjust — do not force misaligned holes. The reaming tool is recommended for all backing plate hole alignment. Forcing a misaligned bolt compromises the connection. misaligned bolt compromises the connection.
Place the remaining two backing plates on the backsides of both rear posts of the upright frame and secure each with (2) carriage bolts through the corresponding sliders. Again, use the reaming tool if holes need adjustment.
Secure each fully adjustable slider using (4) ½” x 4″ carriage bolts — 2 through the top of each slider, 2 through the bottom. Tighten fully with an impact gun and ½” socket. These bolts lock the depth setting permanently on both sides and tie all four columns together structurally into one unified repair.
The kit is in place — now both sides need to be perfectly plumb before anchoring. Work the level on both the front and rear base plates before drilling anything.
Release the hydraulic pressure gradually to lower the lift and allow the PRO Double base plates to settle onto the floor. Lower slowly — you want both base plates to land flat simultaneously. Once the kit is resting on the floor under its own weight, stop lowering.
Using a level, verify the kit is perfectly square — 90° from the floor in both directions (front-to-back and side-to-side) on both the front and rear columns. Make any small adjustments now before drilling. Once the wedge anchors go in, the position is permanent. Check plumb at the top of the kit on both columns, not just the base. Small base angles amplify at height.
Using a hammer drill with a ¾” hammer drill bit, drill (5) anchor holes — through both base plates into the concrete floor. Drill to the correct depth for the ¾” x 5½” wedge anchors. Keep the drill perfectly perpendicular to the floor for straight anchor holes. Angled anchors reduce holding capacity.
Insert (5) ¾” x 5½” wedge anchors into the drilled holes and tighten with a ¾” socket and impact gun to the specified torque. The wedge anchors expand as they tighten, locking the base to the concrete. Do not under-torque — the floor anchor is the final load transfer point.
Secure the fully adjustable slider using (4) ½” x 4″ carriage bolts — 2 through the top of the slider, 2 through the bottom. Tighten fully with an impact gun and ½” socket. These bolts lock the depth setting permanently and tie the front and rear columns together structurally.
The Rack Avenger PRO is anchored and secure. Now carefully disassemble and remove the Rescue System Lift in reverse order — safety strap first, then pins, then the lift head, then the base.
Release all tension from the ratchet safety strap and unhook it from both the lift and the rear upright. Set it aside with the lift kit components.
Pull out all (6) side pins from the cuff — 3 from the top, 3 from the bottom. Keep them with the lift kit; they’re needed for future installations.
Remove the (4) ½” x 1½” bolts from the lift head plate — 2 from the top, 2 from the bottom.
Slide the lift head free from the upright, then disassemble the base and any jack extensions. Move the entire Rescue System clear of the work area. Inspect all lift components for damage and store properly for next use.
With the lift removed, do a final visual check of the installed kit. Verify all bolts are tight, the kit is plumb, all 4 floor anchors are set, and there are no gaps between the cuff and the upright column. The kit should feel completely rigid with zero movement.
Hook-Overs allow you to reattach beams at their original height on the new Rack Avenger PRO column. Because the kit replaces the original column section, existing beam connector holes may no longer align — hook-overs solve this cleanly and permanently.
Install Hook-Overs directly onto the Rack Avenger PRO kit column at the beam height where you need to restore the original beam level. Hook-Overs can be placed anywhere below the cuff of the kit.
Secure each Hook-Over using (8) x 1″ self-tapping screws. Drive them fully with an impact gun. Hook-Overs should be completely flush and immovable once fastened.
Reconnect the rack beams to their original height using the Hook-Overs. Verify each beam connection is locked in and test by applying upward pressure to each beam end — they should not lift free without the safety clip being released.
